fashion

Using Paper Patterns: Doin’ It Old School

Simplicity Sewing Video 1948

Simplicity Sewing Video 1948

Simplicity Sewing Video 1948

 

We’ve gotten requests from our followers to  post more information on sewing and construction.  Well, we thought we’d start with a classic.  If you can just get past the old school pre-feminist ideas of home economics and the nuclear family social construct, you will find that the information about paper pattern use, marking and even basic construction techniques is really fantastic.  We were even reminded about thread-marking for darts, which for anyone who sews, is a godsend.  It takes a little longer sometimes, but it’s accurate!  Enjoy!

 

Eliza Bennett’s Stitch in Time

Eliza Bennett's "A Woman's Work Is Never Done"

Eliza Bennett’s “A Woman’s Work Is Never Done”

This is one example of Eliza Bennett’s  “A Woman’s Work Is Never Done” series of embroideries on her own hand.  The stitches are meant to make the hands look more worn, representing the struggles of primarily female-centric, lower paid,  jobs of cleaning and caring.   Eliza Bennet received a BTEC National Diploma in art, with a focus on textiles. She also has a background in Fashion Design from Middlesex University.  She is London based.

The actual hand work and craft in this visually narrative series of literal “hand embroidery” is somewhat disturbing to look at, but intriguing and beautiful at the same time.  You can see more images of this series in Empty Kingdom’s feature on Miss Bennett.

Eliza’s series reminds us of a project from a couple of years back where we embroidered into a model’s skin and hands as a celebration of Canada Day.  When we created this image, were thinking of doing an entire series inspired by body embroidery, and Eliza’s work has made us think about going back to that early work, to make more of a statement about “suffering for fashion”.  Stay tuned!

 

Photo by Ben Trivett, Embroidery, Makeup by Coleen Scott

Canada Day Photo by Ben Trivett

 

 

 

How Sam Donovan Makes It Work

Sam Donovan Selfie

Sam Donovan Selfie

Sam Donovan is a young designer from the Boston area, full of ideas and an expert at pin-pointing what’s next in ready-to-wear.  He is a Parsons alum, and has the skill set to make any Alma Mater proud.  We saw this skill demonstrated on Project Runway’s Under The Gunn, and were intrigued early on. Especially when he put a pair of overalls down the runway in a red carpet challenge, and WON.  We caught up with Sam recently, to see what he’s been up to since the show aired.

Photos from Lifetime's Under the Gunn

Sam Donovan’s Evening Wear Overalls

 HOW SAM DONOVAN MAKES IT WORK

1.  Who are you, and what season/s did you participate in? 

I’m Sam Donovan, Runner-Up on Season 1 of Project Runway: Under the Gunn.

2.  Please give a brief description of your design style.

I like to think of my design style as a revved-up version of casual wear-my girl is the most fabulously dressed girl at her Sunday brunch in Brooklyn. Very street wear inspired, with graphic, athletic lines, done in an eclectic mix of prints and textures.

 

From Sam Donovan's Twitter

A Slice of Sam Donovan’s Under The Gunn Designs

3.  What was the most challenging thing about the Under The Gunn experience BESIDES the challenges themselves?

I think the most challenging aspect of Under the Gunn was trying not to get stuck in a rut, while making sure I always finished on time. I may have defaulted to one too many circle skirts in the interest of maintaining my time management.

4.  Who have you met or worked with during or since the Under The Gunn experience that you are most proud of or excited about?

Asha Ama Daniels (a fellow Under the Gunn designer) has been such an inspiration to me. She has a great energy and resilience to the harshness of the fashion world that comes out in her work, and she’s energized me to convey my rebellious attitude towards fashion in my work.

Sam Donovan and his mentor on Under The Gunn, Mondo

Sam Donovan and His mentor on Under The Gunn, Mondo

5.  What are you currently working on or excited about professionally?

Right now I’m working on some client work (mostly drag queens) as well as applying for jobs, and thinking about my own work, and where I want to take it in the future.

6.  Besides the basics, what sewing notion or tool could you NEVER do without?

I have my grandmother’s red measuring tape from her old sewing kit, that I never work without.  It’s like she’s draping the garment with me when I construct.  Also, sharpies for marking stubborn fabrics.

7.  Is there anything else you’d like us to know or see?

I think if there’s anything else people need to know about me, it’s that I generally use more color than I showed on Under the Gunn!
Sam with his Under The Gunn Finale Collection

Sam with his Under The Gunn Finale Collection

If you want to connect with Sam, check out his website at http://www.samueljdonovan.com!

Special thanks to Sam for taking the time to chat with us.  Sam, we wish you all the best, in whatever you do, and if you’re ever in New York, get in touch! -C. Scott

All interview text and photo content provided by Sam Donovan, unless watermarked, linked, or specified.

 

How Natalia Fedner Makes It Work

Natalia Fedner is a Los Angeles fashion designer, most recently known for her participation in Project Runway’s Under The Gunn.  Our favorite Natalia design from the show was a fantastically innovative Steampunk ensemble with a mechanized skirt.  We became fans of Natalia while watching Under The Gunn, and love her exceptional designs.  Project: Make It Work recently caught up with Natalia to check in with her about all the fantastic things she’s been doing since the show.

HOW NATALIA FEDNER MAKES IT WORK

1.  Who are you, and what season/s did you participate in? 

I’m designer Natalia (Fedner) and I was on Season 1 of Project Runway: Under The Gunn

2.  Please give a brief description of your design style.

A touch scandalous, a touch classic- but always innovative. More art and invention than straight fashion. Heavy on knitwear and unorthodox materials or materials used in unorthodox ways.

Gown by Natalia Fedner

Gown by Natalia Fedner

3.  What was the most challenging thing about the Under The Gunn experience BESIDES the challenges themselves?

The time pressure, and isolation from all the comforts of life (friends, family, sleep, the internet).

4.  Who have you met or worked with during or since the Under The Gunn experience that you are most proud of or excited about?

I had the opportunity recently to dress Jennifer Lopez for her “First Love” music video.  She wore one of my chiffon and knit silver gowns.  She looked gorgeous, and I was so grateful to her stylists and Entertainment Tonight for mentioning my designs in their interview with her!  I also had the pleasure of working with Shakira, and a gown of mine was worn to the Oscars by Joanna DeGeneres (Ellen’s sister- in-law).

Jennifer Lopez wears a Natalia Fedner dress in her "First Love" video

Jennifer Lopez wears a Natalia Fedner dress in her “First Love” video

 

Joanna DeGeneres and Meryl Streep at The Oscars.

Joanna DeGeneres and Meryl Streep at The Oscars.

5.  Besides the basics, what sewing notion or tool could you NEVER do without?

My knitting needles. They double as weapons 😉

6.  How has social media impacted your life after Under The Gunn?

Wow! I have loved the social media response.  I never expected so much love and support.  I answer each message I get.  When the show was on, I would spend hours each day reading the tweets, Instagram messages, and Facebook posts. Thank you ALL! You touch my heart and allow me to realize how much impact an individual can have. I wish I had all of you with me while we were shooting the show! If any of you ever have any questions about fashion, life, or me – feel free to reach out! Twitter and Instagram: @nataliafedner,  Facebook: Natalia Fedner Design

7.  What are you currently working on or excited about professionally?

I just bought two computerized knitting machines and am hacking them (yup, I’m a tech geek) to knit any image I would like. I’m pairing this tech aspect with my penchant for unusual/high end materials to create some truly mind-blowing art fashion. It’s like a big fun experiment, and since I love inventing things- it gives me a rush to wake up every morning with endless possibilities at my fingertips.

I am thrilled to continue working with Hollywood stylists to get my avant-garde dresses on some of my favorite icons. Recently, Shakira took my entire collection with her to Spain for a shoot- and even purchased one of my dresses! She’s always been an inspiration to me, so this was very humbling. I’m incredibly grateful to her.

Attaching some sneak peaks at some real silver chain I just knitted- can’t wait to get it on a model!  Also, I’ve been doing a little fun embroidery that is also in need of some model love (it took almost a month to complete – my hands are still sore!). For the latest stuff, check out my site: http://nataliafednerdesign.com

Silver Knit Tank by Natalia Fedner

Silver Knit Tank by Natalia Fedner

8.  Is there anything else you’d like us to know or see?

Just a life philosophy: Be good to people.

It sounds so simple – because it is.  There are many roads to success, and it’s up to you which path you choose.  I have found that treating people with kindness, realizing there’s always more than meets the eye, and not judging too hastily, has allowed me to achieve success without hurting anyone in the process. When you are good to people they are more likely to help you, to be good to you, to care for you.  So it is very simple – and it feels really good – be good to people!

And be good to animals, too. I don’t use fur, leather, or wool in my designs.  Any angora I use is sourced from pet bunnies.

Natalia Fedner Couture Dress

Natalia Fedner Couture Dress

Special thanks to Natalia for chatting with us.  Natalia, we wish you all the best, and would love to collaborate with you if you’re ever in New York! -C. Scott

All interview text and photo content provided by Natalia Fedner, unless watermarked, linked, or specified.

How Michelle Uberreste Makes It Work

Michelle Uberreste Portrait

 

This Season of Under The Gunn brought with it a plethora of talented designers, and Michelle Uberreste is no exception.  She fought a good long fight during the season, but when it comes down to it, we think she was just too alternative for the judges tastes.  She demonstrated her mastery of creating intricate seaming that fits the body magically, and use of special materials including vinyl, leather, and lace.  Michelle strikes us as a Nerd in all the coolest ways, and her clothes reflect a post-apocalyptic, comic book world, where everyone looks fabulous in a harness.  We caught up Michelle for an EXCLUSIVE interview, to find out what life is like after  Under The Gunn.

HOW MICHELLE UBERRESTE MAKES IT WORK

1.  Who are you, and what season(s) did you participate in?

Michelle Überreste, Project Runway: Under the Gunn, Season 1.

2.  Please give a brief description of your design style.

Edgy and dark with a lot of imagination.

Michelle Uberreste 1

Michelle Uberreste Design

 

Michelle Uberreste 2

Michelle Uberreste Design

3.  What was the most challenging thing about the Under The Gunn experience BESIDES the challenges themselves?

I think the lack of sleep. People don’t realize that the challenges are all back to back.  And even though you see us in the workroom for 10 hours, that also includes waking up and getting audio attached, placing cameras, travel to the challenge or set up, traveling back, waiting for more cameras to get set up, etc.  Its literally like a 17-18 hour day every day for 6 weeks.  You get a few down days, we had Thanksgiving off, but mostly the lack of sleep drives you insane, and makes it hard to focus and keep pushing.

4.  Who have you met or worked with during or since the Under The Gunn experience that you are most proud of or excited about?

I’ve met a LOT of people since the show, but one of the most exciting is Tyler Green, who competed on Face Off.  He is extremely talented, and someone I admire a lot, and I felt super fortunate to work on a project for him that he presented at the Creativity Conference in Washington, D.C.  It’s also kind of neat to work with someone from ANOTHER reality show because a lot of people can’t understand what it was like.  You have to have been through it.

5.  What have you been working on, and what are you excited about since Under The Gunn?

I started my own company the day after I got kicked off the show!  Since then I’ve been doing a lot of side projects with anyone who is open or needs something, and designing my own line at the same time.  I love working with other creative individuals and making things come to life!

Michelle Uberreste 4

Michelle Uberreste Design

michelle uberreste 3

Michelle Uberreste Design

6.  Besides the basics, what sewing notion or tool could you NEVER do without?

Pins.  Pins are the key to everything.  Besides pressing, I can do wonders with pins. I would totally be lost without them!

7.  Is there anything else you’d like us to know or see?

my website is www.michelleuberreste.com and features what I have for sale now, but I love to work with custom requests and stylists! I had the time of my life on the show and was so thankful for the opportunity to participate and showcase my work on a national level!

Michelle Uberreste 5

Michelle Uberreste Design

Special thanks to Michelle for chatting with us.  Michelle, we wish you the best and would love to collaborate with you if you find yourself in New York!- C. Scott

 

All interview text and photo content provided by Michelle Uberreste, unless watermarked, linked, or specified.

Man Repeller’s Fashion Puns

Man Repeller's Fashion Puns

This series of “Fashion Pun” illustrations by Campbell Pearson is brilliant. We especially love “Clogged”, because we would often rather drown our clogs in the sink than put them on our feet, they’re so ugly.

Maiko Takeda Makes Incredible Headpieces

“Royal College of Art student Maiko Takeda is a breath of fresh air in the world of millinery. Her architectural headpieces resemble porcupine quills, ostrich feathers and tiny iridescent fish scales, all artfully woven together with logic and geometry in mind.”